Holy crap. I am a lazy blogger.
Since I offset my top a little too much to the right, I was left having to install the face vise on the inside of the left leg. Not really what I wanted to do, since installing it on the outside would let me clamp against the leg. The vise is a low-rent chinese model that I purchased from woodcraft for my old bench. Not super smooth, but it holds. I also added the deadman, which is made of the last remaining piece of wood from my original bench. I felt it was a nice touch. However, boring 8 year old doug pine was a splintery disaster.
That’s the raw deadman sitting on the bench, with the two “legs”, before I milled it out. I then went and added a shelf underneath and put some decorative stopped chamfers on the deadman. The shelf was simple construction 1X10’s that I got at the home store. They’re shiplapped and then screwed to a 1X1 ledger nailed to the stretchers and the legs. I put a decorative bead on the shelf.
At this point. We’re done! I still have to flatten the top again as the front leg shoulders were slightly proud of the back shoulders and the top slants inward from both the front and back by a little less than a 1/16.
This was a pretty intense process and the home of a lot of firsts. First mortise and tenon joints and first drawbores. Not my first glue-ups, but the first with sooo many. The scale of the joints was physically intense and I was definitely sore after doing this. Looking forward to making the next project much smaller and lighter.
When I started working on a bench design, I was all in on Roy Underhill’s french bench that I saw on the Woodwright’s shop and in his book The Woodwright’s Apprentice. For those of you that have never seen this, here is part I of that episode.
I was totally sucked in by the angled legs and the awesome sliding dovetails. But this bench was solving a problem I really didn’t have. It was designed to use a “smaller” solid benchtop when compared to the traditional Roubo-style bench. I was planning on laminating my top, so my benchtop was limited only by my ability to move the glue-up around. Before I recognized this, though, I went ahead and laminated up a top. This was also before I was really committed to handplanes and before I had my dewalt thickness planer. That glue-up was done with the “as-ripped” boards. It turned out OK, at best. Here’s an end pic of that top
These are ripped down 2X6’s and kinda knotty. You can see gaps where the cup in the boards prevented me from clamping them completely closed. But it will work. I glued up the second split top using sections I ripped from a 2X12 and ran through the thickness planer. This top is significantly better than the first one. Both in terms of the quality of the wood and the quality of the layup. After gluing them up, I flattened one side with my jack and jointer and then ran them through my thickness planer. That was fun. Really.
Working on a large workbench in inconsistent 2 hour periods at night is a sure-fire way to make slow progress on big projects. In the last post I got the base together. It’s now drawbored and bolted. Here some glamour shots of the drawboring and the bed-bolt arrangement I went with
One thing that I failed to realize is that I should have made the oak pegs oversize for the 3/8 hole I drilled. The pegs tend to twist and bend as they are driven home and open up little spaces at the edges of the holes. I followed the PW guide on drawboring here, but neglected the pin shaping suggestions (other than adding a taper). They look OK. The end units are crazy solid.
I then drilled the counterbores for the washers with a forstner (same one I used for the mortises) and used the center point of the counterbore as a starting point to sink a 1/2 hole as far into the stretcher as I could. I then disassembled the frame and drilled the stretcher as deep as I could with my existing bit. If I had access to a drill press, I would have drilled the leg holes with the press to make sure that they were vertical and then used those holes to freehand the stretchers. As it was, all the holes were a little angled, but it didn’t seem to matter.
Once these were drilled, I used the forstner to drill the crossbores and used a chisel to square up the resulting hole. Everything pulled together at that point and is super solid. The bolts were 8 inch long 3/8 bolts from the home center. Next up, gluing up the tops and flattening them.
Augering through this, so to speak. I am clocking about 30 minutes per mortise at this point, however things sped up a lot when I remembered that I had a 1 1/4-in chisel floating around my tool chest. I also ditched the spur auger and switched to a forstner bit in my 1/2 in drill. I didn’t think you would be able to use a forstner in a hand-held drill. But you can. Here is the base all dry fit and looking ready to go.
Now that the mortises are chopped and the tenons fit, I’m moving to drawbore the joints on the two leg modules. Since the 3/8 dowel stock at the home center is not 3/8 in diameter, I bought 1/2 in rods and pounded them through my home-made dowel plate. I made this out of a scrap piece of 1/4 steel I had lying around. I add a little bit of relief by back drilling with a slightly larger drill after I drill the correct size through the plate.
Here I’m drilling through the plate. I sized the holes in 1/16 increments from 9/16 down to 1/4. I had used the 1/4 before for pegging the breadboard ends of the dutch tool chest. After each hole is drilled, I flipped the plate, used the bit to center the milling machine in the hole, and then swapped out for a larger drill. For the 5/16 hole I used a P drill, which is a little over 0.01 oversize and I kept that general rule for the rest of the holes. The exact dimension probably isn’t import, you just need enough clearance to let the dowel drop through without a lot of effort. I chose the 0.01 oversize because I could easily see the ridge that the drill leaves. Here’s a shot of the ridge after the back drilling (which really isn’t an actual term, but I think it’s pretty descriptive). If you look closely you can see a small ridge in the hole. That gives me the clearance that I’m looking for.
This process is really easy in a bridgeport mill. You can do it in a drill press, just make sure that you have a vise and then shift the vise around to line up the holes. Then lock the vise down to the table and drill on! You have to be careful because the drill will want to grab and pull itself into the hole. You can easily drill all the way through if you’re not on your toes.
After looking around the internet and reading a couple of books, I decided to go with a modification of the benchcrafted split top roubo. Here is a, very basic, sketchup rendering of where I am headed.
I didn’t go with the leg vise because I have the face vise hardware from the old bench, so we’ll try a hybrid approach. The benchcrafted design has the long stretcher bolts going through the side tenons. I moved the long stretchers up because boring a hole through the tenon made me feel like I was removing too much wood in the leg. The arrangement above gives me about 6 inches of clear space under the long stretchers and 3 inches under the short stretchers. Having the short stretchers lower should allow me to store my lathe under the bench.
I started out by gluing up and then squaring up the legs
That’s nearly every clamp I own. One observation from this process, cheap bar clamps are horrible. They twist when you clamp down and you spend an enormous amount of time shifting everything around. I am putting some quality parallel clamps on my christmas list this year.
I squared up the legs by first traversing the reference side of the legs using a jack plane and then followed up with a jointer plane. Incidentally, Chris Schwarz described the same traversing process that I used on the legs just a day or two later on his blog here when starting his roman workbench build. I then ran the legs through my surface planer to get the other side level and to make all the legs the same thickness (height?). I left the legs long.
That part was actually kinda fun. Mortising the stretchers has not been fun.
I am currently augering out most of the mortise and then chopping the waste. This is sweaty work, but it is coming out ok. I have found that it’s better to drill a couple of smaller holes and start chopping rather than trying to drill the biggest hole possible. I tend to not keep the far edge of the mortise square when chopping. Hopefully I’ll get better. One side and 4 mortises done. 12 more to go.
This is the first workbench that I built.
I wish I had better photos, but I think this captures the important points. That’s a face vise on the far left. I am right handed. Stupid. The top twisted almost immediately and because of how I built it, I couldn’t flatten it enough without throwing everything out of wack. Worst of all, the thing was light, flexy, and tall. Not a good combination. I didn’t enjoy working with it, so it sat unused.
Tonight I started ripping yellow pine for a split top, Roubo-like bench. How many 8-foot rips can you get from a single battery charge on a cordless circular saw? About 2.5.